About the Author
Vikram Seth is a famous Indian writer and poet born on 20 June 1952 in Kolkata. He grew up in a happy family and studied in India, China, and England. Seth loves traveling and has written about his journeys in books like From Heaven Lake. This book tells about his trip from China to India through Tibet and Nepal. He is best known for his big novel A Suitable Boy, which is like a long family story. Seth writes in simple, beautiful words about people, places, and feelings. He lives a quiet life and cares about nature, friends, and different cultures. His stories make us see the world with fresh eyes, just like a fun road trip with a wise uncle.
What’s the Story About?
This chapter is a fun travel diary from Vikram Seth's book From Heaven Lake. It's like a postcard from his visit to Kathmandu, the busy capital of Nepal. Seth was traveling from China to India by asking for rides (hitchhiking) and crossing mountains. He stops in Kathmandu for a few days and shares what he sees, hears, and feels—like a mix of temple bells, street snacks, and noisy horns. It's not a made-up tale but real memories that make you want to pack your bag and go!
Let me walk you through it step by step, like sharing photos from a holiday, so you can feel the excitement:
Seth arrives tired in Kathmandu and checks into a cheap hotel. The next morning, he wakes up to the sound of traffic—cars honking like angry geese and bikes zooming around. With friends (Mr. Shah's son and nephew), he heads to two special holy spots. First is the Pashupatinath Temple, a big place for Hindus by the holy Bagmati River. It's crowded with sad families doing last rites for loved ones—bodies wrapped in cloth, flowers floating in the water, and smoke from fires. Only Hindus can go inside the main area, so Seth watches from outside. He sees monkeys jumping around, fighting over food like naughty kids at a fair. There's pushing and shouting among people from different groups, all wanting to get close to the god. It feels chaotic, like a village market on festival day, but full of deep feelings.
Then, they go to the Baudhanath Stupa, a peaceful round shrine for Buddhists. This place is calm, like a quiet garden after a storm. The big white dome shines under the sun, and colorful prayer flags flap gently in the breeze. People walk around it slowly, spinning prayer wheels and chatting softly. No crowds or fights here—just a sense of rest and kindness. Seth feels the difference right away: one spot noisy with sorrow and rules, the other soft like a warm hug.
After the temples, Seth explores the streets. Kathmandu is alive with little shrines everywhere—tiny corners with gods decorated in red flowers and lamps. Narrow lanes are packed with shops selling sweets, postcards, old brass pots, chocolates, and fancy soaps. Fruit sellers yell to attract buyers, and the air smells of roasting corn and spicy marzipan (a sweet nutty treat). Seth buys some corn-on-the-cob, chews on it, then grabs a love-story comic book and a Reader's Digest magazine. He washes it all down with a cold Coca-Cola—simple joys like your after-school snack!
The real magic happens with a flute seller. Amid the racket of horns and voices, this man sits on a mat with rows of shiny bamboo flutes like a porcupine's spikes. He plays one, and its sweet tune cuts through the noise, making everyone pause. He cleans each flute with a cloth, checks it, plays a few notes, and names a price—calm and sure, not shouting like other sellers. Seth buys one and thinks about how flutes from everywhere sound like our own voices—happy, sad, or dreamy. It's a small moment that sticks with him, showing how little things connect us all.
At the end, Seth decides to head home to Delhi the slow way: bus to Patna, train to Varanasi, boat on the Ganges to Allahabad, and train again to Agra and Delhi. No quick plane for him—he wants to savor the journey. The chapter leaves you with the buzz of Kathmandu in your ears and a smile for its hidden peace.
It's like a short vacation in words—busy yet beautiful, teaching us to notice the magic in everyday mess.
Who’s Who in the Story
This is a travel story, so no big heroes or villains—just real people Seth meets along the way. Here's a quick list like naming friends from a trip:
- Vikram Seth (the writer): The main voice, like your tour guide. Curious and thoughtful, he notices everything from monkey fights to flute tunes.
- Mr. Shah's son and nephew: Seth's travel buddies for the day. They take him to the temples and share the adventure, like helpful cousins on a family outing.
- The flute seller: A quiet hero of the streets. Patient and musical, he sells flutes with care and a melody that stops the world for a second.
- Temple visitors: Crowds at Pashupatinath—sad families by the river, arguing pilgrims, playful monkeys. They show the lively, emotional side of faith.
- Buddhist worshippers: Gentle folks at Baudhanath, walking and praying in peace. No names, but they feel like kind neighbors.
- Street hawkers and shopkeepers: Fruit sellers, corn roasters, comic vendors—busy folks filling the lanes with color and calls.
Everyone blends into the city's heartbeat—no one steals the show, but together they paint a lively picture.
Themes and Moral
Themes
The chapter touches on everyday wonders in a fresh way, like spotting birds on your way to school:
- Noise vs. Peace in Holy Places: Pashupatinath is full of rush and rules, while Baudhanath is calm. It shows how faith can feel different—loud with life or quiet with thought.
- Beauty in Busy Streets: Kathmandu's markets mix smells, sounds, and sights. Small joys like a snack or song shine bright amid the chaos.
- Little Things That Connect Us: The flute links cultures and voices. Travel helps us see shared human bits, like laughter or music.
- Joy of Slow Travel: Seth picks the long road home, loving the sights over speed. It's about soaking in the world.
Moral
Life is a mix of hustle and hush—find peace in the middle. Notice small beauties like a tune or treat; they make big trips special. Respect different ways of prayer, and travel with open eyes to feel connected to everyone. Choose the scenic path sometimes—it feeds your heart more than rushing ever can.
Important Vocabulary and Phrases
Here are some key words and lines from the chapter, explained like chatting over chai—no big books needed!
- Hitchhiking: Traveling by asking strangers for free rides, like thumbing a lift from a truck driver on a long road.
- Pilgrimage: A special trip to a holy spot, like going to a temple fair with your family for blessings.
- Sacred: Very holy and important, like your grandma's old prayer book that feels full of magic.
- Stupa: A round Buddhist shrine, like a big white mound with eyes painted on it for good luck.
- Shrine: A small corner for worship, often with flowers and lights, tucked in a wall or tree.
- Hawkers: Street sellers who call out to sell things, like the uncle shouting "Mangoes, fresh mangoes!" at the bazaar.
- Marzipan: A yummy sweet made from nuts and sugar, soft like almond fudge from a mithai shop.
- Quills: Sharp spines on a porcupine, or here, the long bamboo flutes lined up like prickly sticks.
- Melodious: Sweet-sounding, like a bird's song or your favorite radio tune that makes you hum.
- Piety: Deep respect for God, shown in prayers or quiet bows, like folding hands before a deity.
- "The flute seller... plays it with such a melodious tune": A phrase about the man's gentle music that stands out in the noise, like a cool breeze on a hot day.
- "All this I wash down with Coca Cola": Means eating corn, sweets, and reading comics, then drinking fizzy Coke to finish—like your post-cricket gulp of limca.
These bits add flavor to the story. Say them out loud to hear Kathmandu's rhythm!